Certainly there are some items that cannot be sourced locally. Pepper and spices pop up in loads of holiday recipes and they are not grown here. We're not going to be sticklers on the biggest food holiday of the year, though. If you're inclined to use those things in you're cooking, we're inclined to look the other way. We're just suggesting you give the big-picture stuff a shot.
After a cornucopia of sides and entrees, most Thanksgiving meals are finished off with a slice (or two) of pie. The most traditional happens to be a good fit for Santa Cruz County: pumpkin pie, which features autumn's standby squash, which is grown right here.
Hochstrasser said she likes to explore with other squash as well, looking for a moist and fleshy texture to balance out the dessert. Her favorite? The red curry squash, which she gets from Freewheelin' Farm, located five miles up the coast from Santa Cruz.
"It has this really nice, kind of dense texture with a really fresh flavor; it's almost creamy," Hochstrasser said. "We bake it or roast it in the oven to concentrate the flavor until it starts to caramelize."
Companion Bakeshop also turns to locally grown wheat from Pie Ranch in Pescadero for select items in their Mission Street location. The ranch, literally shaped in the slice of a pie, sustainably grows wheat and hosts local schools to harvest and bake with the grain.
"It's very special that there are people growing wheat in our microclimate because most wheat molds in our coastal climate," Hochstrasser said. "I try not to talk about it too much because it's not always available to people. I just want people to know that it's worth it if you're doing something special."
Due to the high cost of local wheat, Companion Bakeshop mainly features the flour in its pies, which can showcase the unique flavor (Hochstrasser cites the crust as equally important as the filling).
"It tastes like wheat, which has a really distinctive and wonderful flavor on its own," Hochstrasser said. "It's nutty and has this nice sort of grit with the bran in it. It has a good crunch."
You might not be able to have a cup of coffee with your pie -- but heck, neither did the Pilgrims -- but a nice cup of locally produced tea could do the trick. Try steeping some herbs from a local farm, a warm way to relax after a long meal.
Beyond baking pies with local ingredients, though, Hochstrasser said she's incredibly thankful for the ability to create a locavore Thanksgiving meal.
"It's important to realize the privilege we have being surrounded by farms that produce such diversity year-round," Hochstrasser said.
Thanksgiving recipes
What follows is a collection of recipes to help you celebrate a locavore holiday. We realize that some of these recipes call for ingredients that are not produced locally -- pepper chief among them -- but we're not going to alter the recipes. If you want to go full-on local-style, improvise as you see fit.
MASHED 'POTATO' PARSNIPS
Serves 4
2 pounds medium parsnips, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick
Kosher salt, to taste
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Ground black pepper, to taste
1. Place the parsnips in a large saucepan, then add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and add a pinch of salt. Reduce the heat to medium-high and simmer, adding a little more water if necessary to keep the parsnips barely covered, until tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid. Set the parsnips aside and return the liquid to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil until reduced to 3/4 cup. Return the parsnips to the pan and add the butter. Working in batches, transfer the contents of the saucepan to a food processor and puree until smooth. Return to the saucepan, season with salt and pepper, then heat over medium until hot.
-- Recipe from Sara Moulton, The Associated Press' Healthy Plate columnist
Radicchio with Butternut Squash, Walnuts, Mozzarella, and Herby Vinaigrette
Radicchio, leaves separated and torn in half, washed and dried
1 small butternut squash, peeled with a vegetable peeler
1/2 cup plus more extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper
Handful walnuts
Handful fresh herbs like parsley, cilantro and chives, coarsely chopped
A tablespoon or so sherry vinegar
High-quality walnut oil if you have it, otherwise olive oil is great
1 ball of the best mozzarella cheese you can find, torn into pieces
1. Butternut squash: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Slice in half and scoop out seeds. Dice squash into large cubes and toss in a bowl with a good glug olive oil and salt and pepper. Toss well to coat all the cubes and place in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes or so until squash is tender and edges are starting to brown. Remove and set aside.
2. Walnuts: Turn oven down to 350 degrees. Put walnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 10 or so minutes, until walnuts are toasted, being very careful not to burn. Remove, coarsely chop and set aside.
3. Dressing: Add chopped herbs to a bowl with sherry vinegar. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and whisk to combine. Drizzle in a scant tablespoon walnut oil if you are using it and whisk vigorously. Drizzle in olive oil (probably about 1/2 cup or a little more -- you'll have dressing left over), whisking continuously until you have desired consistency. Taste and add more olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper as needed. Set aside.
4. Assemble: Add radicchio leaves to a salad bowl. Toss with butternut squash, walnuts and mozzarella. Add just enough dressing to coat all the ingredients, toss well, taste for salt and pepper and serve.
-- Recipe from Dirty Girl Produce, Santa Cruz
Vegetable Estuve
1 cup chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon rosemary, chopped
2 cups new potatoes, diced (that little mixed bag of pretty purple, red and gold ones you get at the grocery work nicely)
2 cups carrots, peeled and diced
1 small pumpkin, (such as Sugar Pie), peeled and diced
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and diced
2 cups vegetable broth
2 cups water
1 pound chard, ribs stripped and leaves chopped
2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
Coarse ground salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil
1. Heat pot over medium-high heat and swirl in olive oil. Add onion to pot, cook until turning golden and tender. Add garlic and rosemary, cook one minute.
2. Stir in potatoes through water. Bring to simmer and cook, covered, 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Turn off stove.
3. If using an immersion blender, dip in and out of pot a few times just to smooth it out about 40%. You want some chunks and more vegetable will break down over time.
4. If using a standing blender; remove 2-3 cups from pot, blend till smooth, add back in.
5. Turn heat on to medium. Stir in chard and heat till wilted.
6. Stir in cream, salt and pepper to taste.
7. Serve with slices of sourdough drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with parmesan and rosemary that's been put under the broiler until crispy.
-- Recipe from Fogline Farm
Mussel Stuffing (Oyster Dressing)
3 shallots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
Small loaf cornbread, preferably on sweeter side -- 3 cups, crumbled
1 medium onion, chopped
6 ounces spiced pork sausage, chopped
7 ounces chanterelle mushroom, stems removed, diced
4 cups day-old rustic bread, cubed
2 teaspoons fresh sage, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
1 pound fresh spinach, roughly chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup milk
Olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in large pot. Add shallots, celery and shallots. Cook six minutes or until tender. Deglaze with wine, scraping up any brown bits with wooden spoon.
2. Add 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Add mussels and cook, covered, until shells have opened, about two minutes. Remove mussels with slotted spoon and set aside.
3. Once cool enough to handle, remove mussels from shells and return to broth (discard shells). In a large bowl, combine bread, mussels and broth, toss and let stand 10 minutes.
3. Add a little oil over medium-high heat to pot. Saute onion 2 minutes, add mushrooms. Saute additional two minutes, add sausage. Saute until vegetables are tender and sausage is browned.
4. Heat oven 375 degrees.
5. Combine mussel and sausage mixture. Add spinach and cornbread. Stir in fresh herbs and adjust seasoning.
6. Stir in eggs and milk.
7. Transfer mixture to oiled baking dish. Cover with foil and bake 20 minutes, uncover and bake until top is golden and dressing is firm, about 25 minutes or more.
-- Recipe from Fogline Farm
Turkey Brine
2 bottles local chardonnay
2 heads of garlic
1 sliced onion
Palm full of green peppercorns
1 cup salt
1 gallon water
1. Combine all the ingredients. Bring to a short boil, cover and cool.
2. Once cool, taste the combination. If bitter, add brown sugar to the mixture.
3. Let the turkey soak overnight in an ice chest. Make sure to move the bird around a few times, getting the brine all over the turkey.
4. If you want crisp skin, you will need to remove a couple hours before cooking it. Make sure to pat dry.
-- Recipe from Hogs and Dogs Ranch
Turkey with Gravy
FOR THE TURKEY
One 8-10 pound turkey, brined if desired
4 tablespoons softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
1 lemon zested
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 head garlic
FOR THE GRAVY
3 tablespoons flour (local, if you can source it)
3 cups chicken stock
Salt and pepper
For the turkey
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. If the turkey was brined, remove the turkey from the brine and pat it dry. Carefully loosen the turkey skin from the breast and around the thighs.
2. In a small bowl, mix the softened butter with the sage and lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. Rub the sage butter under the skin, spreading it over the meat as evenly as possible. Brush the outside of the bird with the melted butter.
3. Cut the top third off the head of garlic to expose all the cloves. Place it and the zested lemon inside the turkey. Truss the bird and place it on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast the turkey, breast side up, for about 45 minutes.
4. Remove the bird from the oven and place it breast side down in the pan. Baste with the drippings in the pan, or additional melted butter. Return the turkey to the oven and roast an additional 45 minutes. Turn the bird so it is breast side up again and baste again. Continue roasting until the turkey reaches 165 degrees when checked in the inner thigh with a poultry thermometer. (Poultry needs 15-20 minutes per pound to cook, so a 10-pound bird will take somewhere between 2 1/2"?3 hours).
5. If the turkey browns too rapidly, cover the breast loosely with foil to finish, or reduce the heat in the oven to about 300 degrees. Remove the turkey from the oven and place it on a board to rest.
For the gravy
1. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Place the roasting pan over low heat on the stove. Add the flour and stir to blend it evenly. Cook the flour mixture 1-2 minutes until the flour turns a pale brown color. Add the stock and bring the mixture to a simmer, while stirring constantly. Carefully pour the gravy into a saucepan and simmer on the stove for 10 minutes. Strain if desired. Taste and add salt and pepper, if necessary.
-- Recipe from www.thedailymeal.com
Companion Bakeshop's Traditional Pumpkin Pie
2 cups cooked winter squash
3 whole eggs
1 egg yolk
1 cup heavy cream (or whole milk/mix)
1/4 cup of unrefined sugar
1/4 cup of brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
Pinch allspice or clove
1 teaspoon of salt
1. Prepare the squash: We suggest red kuri squash for its bright, moist, creamy flesh. But good kabocha, Cinderella, or sugar-pie pumpkins would also be fine. Halve and roast squash at 350 degrees until tender. Allow to cool and remove seeds and skin.
2. Make the filling: Blend pumpkin meat into an even puree (or leave it a bit chunky, if you prefer), adding cream or milk as necessary to smooth it out. Then blend in remaining cream/milk. Add eggs one at a time and blend until smooth. Add sugars, spices, and salt and mix until fully incorporated.
3. Pour into your favorite 9-inch pie crust, par-baked until pale gold, and bake again at 350 degres about 40 minutes, or until just set. A clean knife inserted into the center should come out clean.
-- Recipe from Companion Bakeshop, Santa Cruz
If You Go
Locavore Thanksgiving Resources
Belle Farms
What: A family-run farm that produces extra virgin olive oil.
Where: 223 Peckham Road, Watsonville
Phone: 728-9125
Details: www.bellefarms.com
Companion Bakeshop
What: A local bakery featuring organic baked goods, as well as locally harvested flour in select products.
Where: 2341 Mission St., Santa Cruz
Phone: 252-2253
Details: www.companionbakeshop.com
Dirty Girl Produce
What: A 40-acre certified organic farm growing fruits and vegetables.
Where: 111 Rathburn Way, Santa Cruz
Phone: 566-2433
Details: www.dirtygirlproduce.com
Fogline Farm
What: A 38-acre ranch that raises organic vegetables, wine grapes, orchard fruits and pasture raised meat.
Where: 7447 Glen Haven Road, Soquel
Phone: 345-7020
Details: www.foglinefarm.com
Freewheelin' Farm
What: An 8-acre ranch that grows organic fruits and vegetables.
Where: 5221 Coast Road, Santa Cruz
Phone: 332-6816
Details: www.freewheelinfarm.com
Garden Variety Cheese
What: A 40-acre ranch that produces cheese from sheeps milk.
Where: 1481 San Miguel Canyon Road, Royal Oaks
Phone: 761-3630
Details: www.gardenvarietycheese.com
Hogs and Dogs Ranch
What: A 10-acre ranch that raises hormone-free turkeys, as well as organic produce.
Where: 12637 Sharon Bee Lane, Herald
Phone: 916-688-0913
Monterey Bay Salt Company
What: A local company that harvest salt from the Monterey Bay.
Where: PO Box 751, Seaside
Phone: 760-6993
Details: www.montereybaysaltco.ocm
Pie Ranch
What: A 14-acre ranch that grows wheat and hosts high schools to participate in farm-based programs and activites.
Where: 2080 Cabrillo Highway, Pescadero
Phone: 650-879-0995
Details: www.pieranch.org
Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers ASsociation
What: A local association that promotes more than 70 local wineries.
Where: 725 Front St., Santa Cruz
Phone: 685-8463
Details: www.scmwa.com
Schoch Family Farmstead
What: A Monterey dairy farm that produces hand-crafted cheese made from raw cows' milk.
Where: 10995 Assisi Way, Salinas
Phone: 214-6760
Details: bschoch@hotmail.com
Straus Family Creamery
What: A dairy farm that produces milk, cream, butter, yogurt, sour cream and ice cream.
Where: 1105 Industrial Ave., Petaluma
Phone: 707-776-2888
Details: www.strausfamilycreamery.com
Valencia Creek Farms
What: The Aptos farm produces award-winning extra virgin olive oil.
Where: 1535 Valencia Road, Aptos
Phone: 662-2345
Details: www.valenciacreekfarms.com
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